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The best spot for a grab bar is almost never where the studs are. Studs sit every 16 inches. The place where a hand reaches as someone steps over a tub wall is wherever it is. This guide covers the mounting options that work when there is no stud, and the shortcuts you should not trust.
Why studs matter (and why you often can't use them)
A grab bar has to take a sudden sideways or downward pull, which is the exact load a slip creates. Drywall and tile backer board crumble under that kind of point load. Fiberglass and acrylic tub surrounds are thin shells with an air gap behind them. Whatever holds the screw has to be behind the wall surface, not just the surface itself.
The problem is placement. A diagonal or vertical bar at the tub entry, or a horizontal bar on the back wall at a comfortable height, often lands between two studs. That is why rated hollow-wall anchors exist.
Option 1: Grab-bar-rated anchors
Anchors like the Moen SecureMount go through a hole in the wall and open up behind it, clamping the wall between a rear brace and the grab bar flange. Moen's listing says each anchor supports up to 300 lb and that it lets you install a Home Care grab bar without studs.
Moen Home Care SecureMount Anchor (SMA1005CH)
One anchor per pack; supports up to 300 lb; braces behind the wall so a grab bar end can be mounted where there is no stud; chrome; limited lifetime warranty
Pros
- Lets you place a bar end between studs
- Made for Moen Home Care grab bars
Cons
- Needs a large hole, so drill carefully and measure twice
- Sold one per pack, so most bars need two
Use one anchor per flange that misses a stud. If one end of a bar lands on a stud, screw that end into the stud and use an anchor only for the other end. Read the anchor maker's minimum wall thickness and the hole size before you drill through tile.
Option 2: Solid blocking behind the wall
If the wall is open, during a remodel or a tub replacement, add horizontal 2x6 or 2x8 blocking between studs across the whole bathing area. You can then mount bars anywhere later. This is the most robust option, and it costs very little if the wall is already open.
Option 3: Fiberglass and acrylic surrounds
Thin shells are the hard case. Installer guides agree on a few points:
- The fixing has to reach something solid behind the shell: a stud, blocking, or an anchor designed for that wall build-up.
- Drill slowly with the right bit so you don't crack the shell. Use masking tape over the drill point.
- Seal every hole and the flange edge with silicone so water can't get into the wall cavity.
Choosing the bar itself
A standard 1.25-inch diameter bar fits most adult hands well. The Moen Home Care 24-inch peened bar has a textured, slip-resistant grip. Moen rates it to 500 lb when it is fastened to a stud or SecureMount anchors.
Moen Home Care 24-inch Peened Grab Bar
24 in. long stainless steel grab bar; peened slip-resistant texture; up to 500 lb when installed into a stud or with Moen SecureMount anchors (sold separately)
Pros
- Long enough for a horizontal back-wall bar
- Textured grip for wet hands
Cons
- Rating depends on stud or anchor installation
- SecureMount anchors are sold separately
| Product | Key specs | Link |
|---|---|---|
| Moen Home Care 24-inch Peened Grab Bar | 24 in. long stainless steel grab bar; peened slip-resistant texture; up to 500 lb when installed into a stud or with Moen SecureMount anchors (sold separately) | Check price on Amazon (opens in a new tab) |
| Moen Home Care SecureMount Anchor (SMA1005CH) | One anchor per pack; supports up to 300 lb; braces behind the wall so a grab bar end can be mounted where there is no stud; chrome; limited lifetime warranty | Check price on Amazon (opens in a new tab) |
Specs are from manufacturer and retailer listings and can change between versions; check the listing before you buy. We don't show prices because they change often; the button shows the current price on Amazon.
Where to put the bars
- Tub or shower entry: a vertical bar on the faucet-end wall, so someone can hold it while stepping in.
- Back wall: a horizontal bar for standing and turning.
- By the toilet: a bar on the side wall for sitting down and standing up.
Commonly quoted guidance puts horizontal bars about 33–36 inches above the floor. Have the person who will use the bar mime the motion first, then adjust. If getting in is the real problem, a bench may help more than another bar. See our tub transfer bench vs shower chair comparison.
Test before you trust it
After any adhesive or silicone cures, pull hard on the bar in every direction with your full body weight before anyone relies on it. Check it again every few months. Anchors can loosen if a wall gets wet.
For night-time trips to the bathroom, pair the bars with lighting. Our motion sensor light guide covers rechargeable options that need no wiring.
Tile, drywall and plaster: what changes
The wall surface changes the tools and the anchor choice. On ceramic or porcelain tile, use a tile or glass drill bit at low speed, and put masking tape over the spot so the bit does not wander. Drill through the tile only, then switch bits if needed for the wall behind. On drywall, rated anchors grip the back of the board, so the board must be sound and dry. Soft, crumbling or water-damaged drywall needs repair first. Older plaster walls can crack when drilled, so drill slowly and check the anchor maker's guidance for plaster.
Sealing the holes
In a shower, every hole is a path for water into the wall. Fill each hole and the back of the flange with a silicone sealant rated for bathrooms before fixing the bar, as the maker directs. Wipe away excess and let it cure before showering. Water behind tile can damage the wall and weaken anchors over time.
When to call a professional
- The wall is fiberglass or acrylic and you are unsure what is behind it.
- You find pipes or wiring near the planned spot.
- The wall is damaged or soft.
- You need blocking added, which means opening the wall.
A handyperson experienced with grab bars can often fit several bars in one visit. For layout ideas, see our guides to shower grab bar height and vertical or horizontal grab bars.
Check it over time
Every few months, pull firmly on each bar in every direction. Look for gaps at the flange, cracked tile, or sealant that has peeled. If a bar moves at all, stop using it until it is refitted.
Keep the anchor packaging and instructions in a drawer, so anyone refitting a bar later knows exactly what was used and how it was installed.
FAQ
Can I install a grab bar on drywall without studs?
Only with an anchor the maker rates for grab bars, such as a toggle-style anchor that braces behind the wall. Ordinary plastic plugs are not suitable.
How many anchors do I need?
One for each flange that does not hit a stud. A 24-inch bar with neither end on a stud needs two.
Are suction grab bars safe?
They can release without warning, so treat them as a balance aid only, never as a weight-bearing support.
Should I hire someone?
If you're drilling through tile or a fiberglass surround, or you aren't sure what's behind the wall, a qualified installer is worth it.